Preparing the Base

Before laying any pavers or cladding, proper base preparation is essential for long-term durability. The method will depend on the type of application and the condition of the existing surface. Below are the two most common scenarios:

1. Compacted Sub-Base (e.g. for driveways, pathways, patios)
Recommended for: Cobble stones, flagstones, and most wet cast pavers on natural ground.

• Excavate the area to the required depth (usually 150–200mm depending on load).

• Lay a geotextile fabric if soil conditions are poor.

• Add a 100–150mm layer of G5 or G6 sub-base material (e.g. crushed stone).

• Compact thoroughly using a mechanical plate compactor.

• Top with a 20–30mm bedding layer (e.g. river sand, plaster sand, or a dry cement-sand mix depending on jointing method).

• Screed to level.

⚠️ A properly compacted sub-base ensures your paving won’t shift, sink, or crack under pressure.

2. Concrete Surface (e.g. for rooftops, pool surrounds, existing slabs)
Recommended for: Larger flagstones or pavers being laid over an existing slab or screed.

• Ensure the concrete is structurally sound, clean, and free from loose material or debris.

• Check for adequate slope/fall to allow water runoff.

• Prime the concrete with a bonding slurry if using a wet mortar bed.

• Lay the pavers onto a cement mortar mix (typically 4:1 sand to cement) with a thickness of ±20mm.

• Gently tap into place with a rubber mallet and level as you go.

🧱 Adhesion is key on concrete surfaces — do not lay pavers directly on dry sand or loose material.

Laying the Pavers

Once the base has been properly prepared, the next step is to lay your pavers accurately and securely. The method you use will depend on whether you're laying onto a bedding sand layer or a wet mortar bed. Below are general guidelines for both approaches:

1. Laying on Bedding Sand (for cobbles, walkways, patios, etc.)
This is the most common method for flexible paving applications.

• Start laying from a fixed edge, corner, or string line to maintain straightness.

• Place each paver gently onto the screeded bedding sand — avoid disturbing the level.

• Maintain consistent joint gaps (typically 5–10mm) depending on product design.

• Use tile spacers or packers if precise alignment is needed.

• Tap each paver lightly into place using a rubber mallet.

• Check levels and alignment regularly using a straight edge and spirit level.

• Leave edge spaces for cut pieces, which should be done once the main field is laid.

🧱 Tip: For random cobble patterns or modular layouts, dry-lay a few rows first to visualise the arrangement before setting.

2. Laying on Mortar (for flagstones on slabs, pool edges, or formal finishes)
This is recommended for areas where a solid, bonded surface is required.

• Apply a slurry primer to the back of each paver before laying to improve adhesion.

• Use a 15–25mm wet mortar bed (4:1 sand to cement) on top of the concrete base.

• Lay each paver onto the mortar and tap down firmly with a rubber mallet.

• Ensure full support under each slab — no hollow spots.

• Check levels carefully and allow for drainage falls where necessary.

• Clean excess mortar from joints before it sets.

⚠️ Do not walk on freshly laid pavers for at least 24–48 hours, depending on conditions.

Grouting and Jointing Options

Due to the wider joint spacing typical of wet cast pavers and cobbles, we do not recommend using dry jointing sand, as it washes out over time and compromises the stability and appearance of the surface. Instead, we recommend one of the following methods:

1. Cement Slurry Jointing (Recommended Method)
Ideal for: All wet cast products including cobbles, flagstones, and pool paving.

• Prepare a workable slurry using standard or colour-matched cement.

• Use a rubber squeegee or grout float to work the slurry diagonally across the surface.

• Fill all joints thoroughly and evenly, ensuring no voids.

• Clean excess slurry off the paver surface immediately using a sponge and clean water.

• Repeat cleaning as needed to avoid cement haze or staining.

🧱 Cement slurry jointing creates a strong, weather-resistant joint and gives a solid, professional finish.

2. Premixed Grout Products (Optional Alternative)
Ideal for: Areas requiring colour precision or enhanced performance.

• These are polymer-based or resin-enhanced products formulated for paving.

• Some are brush-in; others require wet application like cement grout.

• Available in various colours to match or contrast your paving.

• Always follow manufacturer instructions for mixing, application, and curing.

⚠️ Always confirm whether the chosen grout is compatible with wet cast concrete products and joint widths of 5mm or more.

Sealing and Maintenance

Proper aftercare is essential to protect your paving investment and preserve the natural beauty of the surface over time. While sealing is not mandatory, it is highly recommended — especially for high-traffic areas, pool surrounds, or installations exposed to staining risks.

1. Sealing (Optional but Recommended)

• Apply a high-quality penetrating or surface sealer suitable for wet cast concrete products.

• Sealers help protect against oil, water, algae, and general weathering.

• Some sealers enhance the colour and finish of the paver, while others maintain a natural matte look.

• Always test the sealer on a small area first to check for colour change or residue.

• Ensure pavers are clean and completely dry before application.

• Apply using a roller or pump sprayer, following the manufacturer’s coverage rates and drying times.

💧 Recommended for: Pool paving, driveways, patios, and entertainment areas.

2. Ongoing Maintenance

• Sweep regularly to remove debris, sand, and organic material that can cause staining or moss growth.

• Clean spills promptly using a mild detergent and soft-bristled brush.

• For deep cleaning, use a low-pressure washer — avoid concentrated jets that can damage the surface or joints.

• Reapply sealer every 2–3 years, or as recommended by the product supplier.

⚠️ Avoid acidic cleaners or high-pressure washing too close to the surface, as this can degrade the texture or strip away joint material.